Grøn guld fra Rocca di Montegrossi

 

Grøn guld på flaske

 

I de herlige olivenlunde på Rocca di Montegrossi vokser omkring 1.000 oliventræer.

Det er næsten udelukkende af sorten Coreggiolo med nogle få Moraiolo-træer ind imellem. Oliventræerne vokser i en blandet kultur med frugttræer.

Oliven høstes med hånden i flere omgange i løbet af oktober måned, inden de er helt modne. Dette resulterer i meget lavt udbytte, men til gengæld får man en fantastisk olivenolie med en syreprocent på under 0,2 og meget højt indhold af polyfenoler. Straks olivenfrugten er høstet, bringes den til presning indenfor 2 dage. Koldpresses under tryk af nitrogen (for at undgå iltning). Denne teknik giver en meget frisk olivenolie med en fantastisk aroma og duft. Ca. 2000 liter grøn guld produceres på denne måde hvert år.

Olivenolien fra Rocca di Montegrossi minder om duften af unge artiskokker, grønne æbler og grønne tomater, men også om bananer - i nogle øjeblikke sågar  den delikate duft af græs. Smagen af Olio Extra Virgin Olive DOP del Chianti Classico er fløjlsagtig og bittersød, men på overfladen meget krydret. Det er en oplevelse at få en flaske nypresset i hånden. Den fremstår med en fantastisk dyb græsgrøn farve og giver en vidunderlig base for alle typiske toscanske retter.

Årgang 2018 er nu høstet og på flaske. Vi har den hjemme i butikken nu.

Vi har meget begrænset mængde tilrådighed, så der kan hurtigt blive udsolgt. Olien kan bestilles under VINOVERSIGT. Prisen er kr. 135,00 pr. flaske (0,5 liter).

 

 

Nyt fra Rocca di Montegrossi

v Det grønne guld i form af Olivenolien 2018 er hjemme i butikken.

 

v  Den nye vertikal-kasse med Chianti Classico Vigneto San Marcellino bestående af 2 flasker 2009, 2 flasker 2010 og 2 flasker 2011 vil blive markeret som Grand Selection

 

v  Marco Ricasoli meddeler, at der nu er en ny vin på vej. Vinen er lagt på flaske i årgang 2015, men blandingen er stadig en hemmelighed. Smagningen på nuværende tidspunkt udviser en helt forbløffende kvalitet, og Marco giver udtryk for, at han er helt overbevist om, at ægteskabet mellem druerne ???? og ???? er rigtigt. Den skal nu modne i flaske i 2 år, så den kommer til salg i 2019 og kun i Magnum flasker. Vinkonsulenten Attilio Pagli er helt i ekstase over årgangene 2015, 2016 og 2017 på Ridolfo. Vi venter spændt.

 

v  Restaureringen af den gamle kirke fra det 17 århundrede, som ligger på San Marcellino marken, vil snart blive påbegyndt og forventes at være tilendebragt i begyndelsen af 2019.

 

v  Chianti Classico Vigneto San Marcellino bliver i 2013 årgangen frigivet også i 3 liters flasker ”Jeroboam”

Rocca di Montegrossi - Chianti Classico smagning 2013 - 2015

Overordnet er der jo vældig sammenhæng. De har formelt samme druesammensætning i alle årgange og samme fadmængde. De har alle sangioveses kerneegenskaber i første bølge.

 

2015 er rødsort med let vaniljekrydrede kirsebær, rust og tranebær, mens smagen er voluminøs i forhold til de ældre årgange, men stadig med sangioveses markante syre, varme tannin og lette bitterhed i eftersmagen.

 

2014 er smule lysere end ’15 og har mere ”rød” frugt, tranebær, igen jern og kirsebær plus absolut intet præg af fadlagring. Saftig og forfriskende med fornem sammensmeltning af kirsebær og kinin.

 

2013 er præget af mælkesyre i duften, men ikke for meget, medkoks, trækul og kirsebær igen, rust og grønkrydret, nærmest mint-agtig overtone. Den er stram og sur, let bitter og pakket med nordisk kirsebær.

 

 

 

 

Flot udmærkelse til Rocca di Montegrossi

Antonio Galloni - Årgangssmagning San Marcellino

En perlerække

Seneste vínvurderinger

 

Rocca di Montegrossi

Rosato 2017

Tony Wood: 92 point

Chianti Classico 2015

Wine Spectator: 90 point - drikkevindue 2018 - 2026

Wine Align: 90 point - drikkevindue 2017 - 2021

James Suckling: 92 point

Vinous: 90 point

Falstaff: 94 point (Chianti Classico Trophy)

Chianti Classico 2016

Tony Wood: 92 point

Chianti Classico, Vigneto San Marcellino 2007

Vinous: 95 point

Chianti Classico, Vigneto San Marcellino 2008

Vinous: 94 point

Chianti Classico, Vigneto San Marcellino 2009

Vinous: 94 point - drikkevindue 2019 - 2034

Chianti Classico, Vigneto San Marcellino 2010

Vinous: 96 point - drikkevindue 2018 - 2035

Chianti Classico, Vigneto San Marcellino 2011

Vinous: 95 point - drikkevindue 2017 - 2032

Chianti Classico, Vigneto San Marcellino 2012

Wine Spectator: 92 point - drikkevinue 2017 - 2028

Wine Align: 93 point - drikkevindue 2019 - 2026

Vinous: 92 point - drikkevindue 2017 - 2027

Chianti Classico Vigneto San Marcellino 2013

Vinous: 96 point

Bibenda: 5 Grappoli

Veronelli: 3 stjerner

James Suckling: 92 point

Wine Align: 95 point - drikkevindue 2020 - 2030

Geremia 2013

Wine Spectator: 92 point - drikkevindue 2019 - 2032

Wine Align: 92 point - drikkevindue 2019 - 2028

James Suckling: 92 point

Vinous: 97 point - drikkevindue 2020 - 2033

Tony Wood: 97 point

Geremia 2014

Wine Spectator: 94 point - drikkevindue 2020 - 2032

Tony Wood: 95 point

Vin Santo 2008

Wine Spectator: 94 point - drikkevindue 2018 - 2024

I Giusti e Zanza

Belcore 2016

James Suckling: 92 point

Dulcamara 2015

James Suckling: 94 point

Nemorino 2016

James Suckling: 92 point

Per Bruno 2016

James Suckling: 92 point

Vigna Vecchia 2015

James Suckling: 93 point

Falstaff Dec-Feb 2018

Rocca di Montegrossi Chianti Classico 2015 (94 pts)

Full, bright ruby with light violet shades. Intense and attractive nose, shows scents of ripe cherries, prunes, spicy aromas of cedar wood in the back. Velvety and voluminous on the palate, unfolds soft, very sweet, ripen berries. It also shows good drinkability, juicy with long reverberation.

In the play off the positions have been determined. The winner of our Chianti Classico Trophy is the Chianti Classico 2015 Rocca di Montegrossi. The winery of Marco Ricasoli is located in Monti, in the southwest of Chianti Classico. What with twenty hectares is for the Chianti a relatively small winery, from several years already draws attention with superb wines. 

The 2015 is a fairytale Chianti: dense and with full fruit, though juicy and with beautiful drinkability.

Naturen er grundlaget, men manden former vinen

 Fra bogen "Vinmagerne i Toscana" af René Langdahl Jørgensen

"De siger alle sammen, at naturen laver vinen, men det passer ikke. Falsk beskedenhed eller storhedsvanvid på den amerikanske måde, hvor kun Gud og naturen er større end én selv, er årsagen til den slags pjat. Det er mennesket, der bestemmer, hvornår druerne skal plukkes, det er også ham, der bestemmer sig for at beskære vinstokken, så den ikke lod sine naturlige slyngede arme vandre hen over jorden eller søge op i det nærmeste træ. Det er ham, der bestemmer, hvor længe druen skal trække med masken; det er ham, der bestemmer, om vinene skal i træfad eller ej, og det er fuldstændig op til ham at bestemme, hvornår vinen skal på flaske, for der flyder den ikke hen af sig selv. Det er kort sagt mennesket, som laver vinen. Men det er naturen, som skabte vinplanten; det er naturen, der fandt på, at sukker kan blive til alkohol; det er naturen, som  på nærmest uforklarlig vis kan skabe aromastoffer af ikke-organiske substanser. Naturen er grundlaget, men manden former vinen"

Høstrapport fra Rocca di Montegrossi - Årgang 2017

Marco Ricasoli Firidolfi

Vintage 2017 – Record heat and drought

After 2013, 2014, 2015 and 2016 I was confident that we would have experienced a warm, dry vintage, though of course I was hoping that it wouldn’t be of a such remarkable level as the 2017 has turned out.

With the exception of the timeframe from October 13th to the beginning of November 2016 when we have had heavy rainfalls, basically from November 2016 till today Nov 3rd 2017 we have had no real rain, other than some rainstorm. So we didn’t have those rainy days that allow the soil to recover and the water resources to refill and get to a pretty good level.

Temperatures have also been always above average during the fall 2016, as well as in winter and beginning of spring 2017. We only had 15-18 days of wintertime in January, but the remaining of the winter was still too mild. This has caused an anticipated germination of the vines of about one month!

From late April to May 10th we had, instead, a time span of unusual cold and the frosting has slowed down the growth of the sprouts, thus reducing the advanced development of the vines to about three weeks. However, we noticed that the development was not uniform, because of the cold, and this was reported during May and June, when finally the plants have reach again their balance.

At Rocca di Montegrossi we luckily reported few damages from the frost, thanks to the high, well ventilated and dry position of our vineyards in addition to the many fires that we lit during the night that have mitigated the damaging effects of frost on the vines.

I had much concern for the continued drought associated with the high temperatures – about 3-4 °C above average - that followed the cold days of early May. But happily till July 25th the nights were pretty cool and therefore the vines have held up very well, thanks to the help of a good micro climatic situation and to a continued soil working, to reduce the evaporation and keep more humidity in the soil.

Additionally, I decided to pinch the tops out of the plants just once, instead of the usual two (if not three in some areas) pinching sessions, with the purpose of avoiding any further stress to the plants and also to provide more shade to the grape by leaving the grapevines on the plants instead of cutting them off. Obviously we also didn’t do any defoliation in August. We defoliated only a few, facing-east vineyards in mid September.

After July 25th the temperature was high during the night, too, and the vines have started to suffer a little bit. The rainfalls were scarce and near zero. This is the first vintage I remember by heart the amount of millimetres of rain that have fallen: 6 ml in the beginning of August, 11 ml on August 10th and 1.5 ml on August 19th. A meagre amount but it has allowed the vines to survive. Indeed the vines were still in an excellent condition till 21st-22nd August, with almost no damage of withering or burning.

I was truly satisfied considering what I was told about the situation in other areas. But the last wave of heat that has lasted till September 1st , with high temperatures also during the night, has “exhausted” the vines and we started to spot some damage on the grape, happily not a big amount.

On average about 5% of the grape was showing raisined grape on the most exposed side of the bunch. It was so sad to see this situation, despite we had been fighting like lions to avoid it. Anyways, like already said, it was rather limited.

With the only exception of the Malvasia grape for the Vin Santo, that was harvested the last days of August, I didn’t rush to harvest.

The damaged grape was by then already damaged and no rains could “revive” it, but all the remaining grape could still benefit from the forthcoming rains that have come, finally, from September 1st as well as from other rainfalls that have followed during the first fifteen days of September, with cool temperatures even lower than average.

This has allowed the grape to rebalance with regards of volume and sugars, as well as for the acidity. At the same time, to let mature the tannins, I didn’t want to harvest straight away, but I decided to wait for the grape to recover its march to maturation.

I noticed that most producers had already, inconceivably, finished harvesting by the 15th of September!!! A haste that can’t be positive.

Apart from the Rosato that was harvested from September 4th to 15th, we started the “real” harvest on September 14th with a first amount of Merlot and then from September 21st and 22nd, followed by the Sangiovese for the Chianti Classico flagship. At the end of the month the Sangiovese for the San Marcellino, and on October 2nd the Pugnitello.

The harvest was concluded on October 10th with the harvest of the second part of Pugnitello and the Cabernet. So, we have harvested during a pretty standard timeframe, maybe just slightly anticipated.

I think that this decision was well taken and the result was very good. I can’t consider this to be the best harvest ever, but certainly it is a pretty high quality. This high quality is for all varietals with no exception. Just the quantity is a little lower, though, even if there’s been no dramatic loss but just a - 4,4% than 2016.

Therefore, considering the climatic trend of the vintage I can only be grateful for the final result that we have achieved. I am also thankful to all my team in the vineyards and the agronomists, Stefano Dini and Dario Ceccatelli, with whom we always discuss and exchange opinions to hopefully reach the right balance.

All this has produced a wine that Attilio Pagli has several times commented with an enthusiastic satisfaction and for me this isalready a remarkable sign